Die Platinen bieten eine solide Grundlage für den StealthBurner, insbesondere für Voron-Benutzer, die sich mit der Verkabelung ihres druckers auskennen. Wenn man bereit ist, mehr Zeit und Mühe in die Installation zu investieren und die höheren Kosten in Kauf nimmt, kann dieses Kit eine gute Wahl sein. Für Anfänger könnte es jedoch aufgrund der mangelnden Anleitung und der Herausforderungen mit den Pins weniger empfehlenswert sein.

Tried to crimp on the connectors to the wire and insert into the PH2.0 connector connector does not fit all the parts were wrong connectors are hard to take off wouldn't recommend buying unless you plan on replacing all the connectors

I can understand why there are other negative reviews. Install this board is not as straightforward as other solutions, but a 5 min quick search and you can find some detailed installation videos. Other than that product works great!

Got this form my customer printer build. Everything worked great and had no issues. Will buy again for my next build.

Ich kann die negativen Rezessionen glücklicherweise nicht wirklich bestätigen. Beide Platinen funktionieren problemlos, wenn man die richtigen Teile druckt (mit PCB im Namen!) passen auch die zusätzlichen Steckverbindungen. Lediglich die Beschriftung der Pins am Steppermotor-Anschluss ist tatsächlich falsch, bei mir war es ABBA anstatt AABB, aber das kann man mit einem Multimeter ganz einfach überprüfen und 2 Adern im Stecker tauschen ist ja kein Hexenwerk. Lediglich die Anzahl der Crimps ist sehr knapp bemessen, denn das crimpen dieser kleinen JST PH 2.0 Stecker kann nervig und fummelig sein, ein paar mehr als Reserve könnte da nicht schaden. Ansonsten war der Einbau problemlos, wer vorher das Afterburner-Board verwendet hat, muss darauf achten daß der Kammer-Thermistor wegfällt und dafür hier 5v zugeführt werden. Man kann dann am Steckanschluss für die 2. Platine ganz einfach 5V für Tap abgreifen, falls man eine Version kleiner als 2.4 verwendet und keine 24v nehmen will.

I bought this because I was desperate to get up and running having destroyed my first board, but there are better alternatives. You will need to remove the soldered-on connectors on the smaller board, or you won't be able to close your stealthburner. Oh, and it's waaaay over priced.It's funny, because they added the plugs to what was otherwise a perfect design, and ruined it! That said, for whatever reason, this is what we can buy quickly in the UK. So if money is no object, you can't wait for foreign shipping, and you're prepared to get your hands dirty, you can make this work.

I really wanted to like this thing... I really did!If you don't want to read my whole rant... skip down to the Good / Bad section at the bottom!Out of the box, it was impressive. Seemed well thought out and complete.Instructions are rather non-existent except for the pinout photo on the Amazon listing, but it seems to get the job done.It fits nicely in my Stealthburner with not a mm to spare, and you need to print out the spacer to mount the main board.My optimism faded when I started to make the connectors. I've made 1000's of 2.54mm JST plugs for RC stuff, but for some reason, the supplied pins are more difficult to crimp than any others I've ever used. Lower quality and poor tolerances I presume.I bought a Voron wiring kit so I chopped the ends up to wire it into the 14 pin plug of this PCB. The pins are difficult to crimp, and even more difficult to insert into the plug housing. They don't stay put very well so you have to bend the barbs out more and need a good shove with a tiny screwdriver to push them all the way in. I use the Revo Voron hot end, and the PCB is ready to accept the stock heater and thermistor plugs from this setup, so that was nice.Trying to plug in the MCU was difficult to seat. After pushing, squeezing, cussing, wiggling, and squeezing more, the plug finally seated. I pulled the plug back off and several of the barrel pins had pushed out of the plug. Apparently the barrels of these pins are poorly sized and hard to align. I had to pull the plug pins out, pry the barbs out and try to reseat them. This was a rinse and repeat operation multiple times over.I finally got all pins somewhat stable so I reconnected the MCU plug and tried shoving the pins that still pushed out back into the plug from the back side with a small screwdriver. Not a solution I'd go with long term, but I wanted to see if I could get anything close to working. With some slight success getting my thermistor pins to make contact so my printer to boot up, my tap and leds were hit or miss, and I never got to the point of testing fans. While fussing with it, I burnt my hand on my extruder stepper. What the heck! I quickly unplugged it.I got tired of fussing with the poorly executed 14 pin MCU plug so I pulled the main pcp out of my print head and de-soldered the MCU plug from the board. Unfortunately the pins aren't standard circuit board 2.54mm pinout so I couldn't replace it with some header pins I had on hand. Instead, I made a new 14 pin pigtail plug and soldered the wires to the pads from the original plug. It won't be as compact, but it's a solid connection now.When double checking my work on the plug, I was tracing continuity from my plug all the way back to the pin out for the component. Everything checked out until I got to the stepper setup. The input order did not match the output order. Well no wonder the extruder stepper was cooking. I sure hope it didn't burn up the stepper motor, or worse, fry something on my main board.Here's how the wires traced out:MCU Pin 1 S2B (Black) is traced to Stepper Output Pin 4 (Blue)MCU Pin 2 S2A (Green) is traced to Stepper Output Pin 2 (Green) (Got one right)MCU Pin 3 S1A (Red) is traced to Stepper Output Pin 1 (Black)MCU Pin 4 S1B (Blue) is traced to Stepper Output Pin 3 (Red)Now I need to re-order my pins on my harness so it gets the stepper phases wired correctly.Once I complete that, I'll hopefully have this working, but it's definitely not a purchase I'd make again. I'd save the headache and just accept the crows nest of wiring in my print head.THE GOOD:Compact design that reduces wires and cleans up printhead.Accepts stock plugs from Revo Vorn hotendTHE BAD:MCU plug is terrible. Barrel pins don't fit well and don't stay put.Stepper input is WIRED WRONG!