This tool got me out of a bad situation where my spark plug broke inside the motor of my F150. This saved me a trip to the mechanic and after watching a few YouTube videos on how to use it, I was able to extract my spark plug without issue. Save some money and get this tool if you're in a situation like me!

lo único malo es la paqueteria que usan para distribuir, ya que me llego roto del estuche de plástico y las piezas con leves señales de golpes o compresión, y eso que son metales, por ello calificación para la paqueteria es cero y estuve a punto de regresarlos por eso, pero finalmente el aparato cumple bien su función y es lo que importa.

Update: This first pragraph is a more to the point summary of the below review. I used the Lisle tool to replace 5 broken plugs out of 8 on a 2007 Ford F150 5.4L at 94K. It was quite literally a must to remove the broken plugs and worked flawlessly.The following paragraphs may be helpful if your having an issue with your broken plugs:Replaced the plugs on a well maintained 2007 F150 5.4L at 94K and followed Ford's TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on plug removal to the letter (actually above and beyond by soaking the plugs in aerokroil penetrating oil 18+ hours after a 1/4 loosen turn) and 5 of the 8 plugs still broke. Prior to, I was really stressing over doing this job after reading all the horror stories from Ford owners of plugs breaking . So just in case I bought the Lisle tool and had it there ready to go. Boy I'm I glad I did! I'm a weekend mechanic, I don't do it for work, fun or a hobby....I do it when the truck/car needs fixed and it's within my technical and tool capabilities. This tool is well within mine and it will be for most people. If you change your own spark plugs you can use this tool. One note is make sure you have a 'Deep Socket 15/16 Socket', you HAVE to have this to use the tool for the extracting part.. A standard 15/16 socket won't do, it's got to be a deep well socket (Guess who had to degrease themselves enough to go to the store to get a socket!).The Lisle tool worked flawlessly but there's a few points you need to address if you use it. Having an air compressor with a long angled attachment to blow any penetrating oil or broken ceramic from cylinders is highly recommended. I used the Hiltex® 31111 24" Air Blow Gun with Angled Aluminum Nozzle | Standard 1/4-inch NPT Air Inlet that I bought on Amazon and it worked great.BE CAREFUL when you use the aerokroil oil. If you get too much down into the actual cylinder it can cause MAJOR problems with engine 'hydro lock'. So if you soak the plugs with the oil, be SURE that you get the excess oil out of the plug port before you try to extract the plug. I used a DIY contraption (it was a 3/4" diameter flex hose taped to the vac hose) on my shop vac to suck out the excess oil and then blew it out with the air hose for safe measure. Then, when the plugs were finally out, I repeated that process getting any exceess oil out of the cylinders before putting the new plugs in.Also, there's 2 different ways the plugs break and are described in Ford's TSB as 'Mode 1' and 'Mode 2'. Mode 1 is where the plug just snaps and you bring out the top half of the plug in your socket. That's "good", just go straight to the Lisle tool to extract it. But with me, mine broke off in Mode 2, where the whole plugs turns but is still stuck in the engine. Then in order to use the Lisle tool you have to get that top portion of the plug unattached from the rest of the plug. That was my pain, trying to get a pair of needle nose pliers, with angled heads or not, in some of those plug holes. It was impossible to disengage the top portion the plug in "Mode 1" with the pliers in 2 of the cylinders. So in those 2 cylinders I retightened and loosened the plugs several times, with a lot of wiggling it around between, until the top of the plug finally disengaged.In addition, I used the Sunex 884505 3/8-Inch Drive 9/16-Inch Extra Deep Spark Plug Socket, available on Amazon and recommend it.Thank goodness for the Lisle tool, it's a serious 5 star tool, but I'm not happy with Ford....at all. If this is just too much for you to tackle and you decide to take the chance with a mechanics shop, be sure to Google the Ford Spark Plug Settlement. It explains the class action settlement against Ford for this problem. It explains their reimbursement procedure for over expenses you incur for having the plugs changed out. There's forms you can download to complete the process. It was a slap in the face to me because it's percentage based but if your stuck and can't do this job yourself make sure you use it.One last note. If you have the money and your approaching 100K go ahead and replace the coil packs with a quality product. They sit on top of the plug and have to be removed anyway to take the plugs out so no extra time. On my previous Ford 5.4L they started going out 1 by 1 after 100K so this time I just took care of it at the same time. Good Luck!

Well worth twice the price! We had 6 out of 8 plugs break off and this remover took them all out with no problems. After a lot of reading and watching of a few videos on how to use the tool, I have the following recommendations and comments:-I sprayed carb cleaner in each spark plug hole and sprayed again a couple of times over the course of two days just covering the broken plug (they broke flush with the metal tip for the most part).-I used a long clamp tool (similar to a skinny needle nosed pliers) to remove the electrode that remained in a couple of the plugs (I think the electrode must be removed or it could put undue stress on the pusher unit). I had to chip away at the porcelain to get enough grip on the electrode.-Use a shop vac or similar with correct sized hose attached to vacuum all porcelain pieces every step of the way.-Use antiseize lube on the pusher part that screws into the plug hole.-When using the pusher part, I did screw it down to the bottom as recommended; however, if the plug was broken slightly above the metal tip, I did the push in two parts, vacuuming the porcelain part way through the push (too much material in the hole).-When using the extractor part, I greased and then put a drop of oil on the reverse thread cutter threads. I also only screwed it in until it seemed to get a bit harder turning than before (I think over tightening could again put undue stress on the tool, and using this method seemed to give more than enough grip for the extraction...in fact, the spark plug tip was generally hard to get off of the tool once removed).-I was also very careful to clean the cutter threads with carb cleaner and wipe them down before lubing for the next plug (the porcelain residue can dull the threads over time).-The plug end strap broke in each case but the metal seemed to stay on the plug (we had one plug out of the six that had a couple of small chunks of porcelain fall into the cylinder...I used the vacuum with an even smaller hose to get one of the chunks and from what I read, the remaining small piece will get blown out, or ground up and blown out the exhaust port)-The cutter threads show very little signs of wearing after six extractions (due to using a generous amount of grease and oil on the cutting threads)In summary, use a vacuum every step of the way to remove old porcelain, grease and lube the cutting threads, clean between each use, and don't over tighten. Personally, I would never again use the OEM type plug that is known to break in this way (there are a few plugs on the market now that are made from a single piece of metal instead of two or three pieces like the OEMs). If you have them in your Ford, take them out altogether, or unscrew them, clean and re-lube with antiseize every year...do not wait until 100000 km to take them out as recommended in the service manual. This removal tool saved me the cost of removing the heads (which usually means removing the engine)...I'm pleasantly surprised by it's design and effectiveness!

I very rarely write product reviews, but I was so impressed with this tool that here I am, writing a review.I don't know who designed the spark plugs or the seating arrangement for the Triton 3v engine, but if I ever meet him I'll shake him warmly by the neck because it's a horrible piece of engineering. Despite being as careful as I possibly could, I was left with 3 out of 8 plugs broken and stuck in the engine with no clue about how to remove them without a very expensive trip to the garage.Luckily, a friend mentioned that there was a tool available that was specifically designed for this problem so a quick Google took me to Amazon and a selection of tools for this job. I picked the 'Lisle (LIS65600) Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3 Valve Engines' based on the number and quality of the reviews and sent in my order. I used the expedited shipping option, which was a no brainer as my truck was immobile while it sat with 3 broken plugs. Delivery was reasonably fast - I ordered on Sunday and the tool was at my door on Wednesday; no complaints there.On opening the package, I find that the tool is actually 2 tools, one for each step in the removal process and is housed in its own sturdy plastic box with instructions (both written and pictorial) which were easy to follow and a few spare nylon washers. Everything was well made and I was able to put it to work straight away.I was curious about how the tool would work until I was able to hold it and figure it out - it's pretty simple and very effective. The first tool is used to push the ceramic down through the plug to leave a gap between the ceramic and the top of the stuck sleeve. The second tool is screwed down into this gap, cutting a thread into the inside of the plug sleeve and gripping in firmly. Then it's just a matter of turning the nut that pulls on the threaded section, withdrawing it and the broken plug from the engine.I cannot overstate how easy this tool was to use and how effective it was in removing the broken plugs! From starting the process to standing with the extracted broken plug in my hand took around 10 minutes per plug. The ONLY thing I would mention with this item is that because there isn't a lot of room in an engine bay to turn a wrench you'll need to have a set of deep sockets available.A well made tool, very good price, quick delivery and it performed exactly as advertised without any fuss. I'm almost looking forward to the next plug change so I can use it again!